The festive, chilled chestnut-based sweet treat is often credited to the great nineteenth-century chef the chef Carême, who admitted that the opulent invention was the work of Monsieur Mony, cook to the Russian diplomat Count Nesselrode. Originally, it was served with a warm, alcoholic custard, although it is perfect on its own. It makes an excellent holiday centrepiece.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g currants, or alternatively raisins or even sultanas
50g good-quality candied citrus peel, minced
75ml maraschino, or other sweet alcohol you like (as noted later)
1 vanilla pod, split, or alternatively 1 tsp vanilla extract
600ml double cream
4 egg yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g vacuum-packed chestnuts, or plain chestnut puree
Transfer the currants and peel and candied peel into a mixing bowl. The historic method is reported to have used currants along with raisins (although other dried grapes, or even any other diced dried fruit you prefer, can be used), as well as candied citron, the peel of a mild, thick-skinned citrus. This is sold online, similar to many other glacé fruits that prove far nicer compared to the typical tough, oily pieces available at shops.
Pour in the liqueur: maraschino, a classic Italian cherry-flavored liqueur, was the original choice, though other recipes opt for triple sec, cognac with noyaux, an almond-tasting liqueur made from apricot kernels, or a mix of the cherry liqueur with dark rum. Madeira wine, sherry, port, and so on, would also be fine, too. Marinate the fruit for several hours, or for the night.
About an hour before you begin, split the vanilla bean along its side and use a sharp knife to remove the tiny seeds. Transfer these seeds and the bean pod into a small saucepan with the cream, heat gently until it reaches a simmer, after which switch off the stove and let it to infuse. (Should you use extract, add it and use at once.)
Place the egg yolks into a heatproof bowl near the hob (reserve and freeze the whites to use in cocktails or pavlovas). Carefully heat again the infused cream to reach a near-boil. In the meantime, mix the caster sugar into the egg yolk mixture (should you possess a strong sweet tooth, consider to increase the amount of caster sugar slightly).
Take out the vanilla bean pod out of the cream, then gradually whisk the hot cream into the bowl with the egg yolk bowl. Tip into the pot, place it on a low heat and stir, whisking all the while, to the point where the mixture reaches a coating consistency that a clear line can be made in it on the underside of the spoon. Put the saucepan into a basin with icy water to cool down.
In the meantime, brown the flaked almonds over dry heat until they become lightly toasted. Should you use whole cooked chestnuts, whizz them in a food processor, or pound into a fine powder in a mortar.
Remove the liquid from the soaked fruit, add the reserved soaking alcohol into the chestnut powder and blend again till creamy mixture (should the mixture be too thick, mix in a little of the egg mixture to help loosen). For those using chestnut puree, simply mix in the liqueur.
Transfer the chestnut mixture into a big basin, next bit by bit whisk with the vanilla custard till thoroughly mixed. Churn using an ice cream machine till fairly thick state. As an option, pour into a sturdy freezer-safe tub, cover and freeze for one hour, then employ an electric whisk or a sturdy spatula to whisk vigorously. Do this again approximately at thirty-minute intervals until thickened and almost set.
Once the frozen mixture reaches a semi-solid state, fold the soaked and drained fruit and almonds into it till well distributed. Line a two-pint pudding basin or baking tin with film wrap and spoon the ice-cream into the mould (alternatively, use a lightly oiled fancy mould).
Compact the mixture and fold the plastic wrap over the top to cover.
A passionate travel writer and photographer based in Italy, sharing unique coastal adventures and cultural insights.
Michael Johnson
Michael Johnson
Michael Johnson
Michael Johnson
Michael Johnson