Bethlehem's Holiday Tree Lights Up for the First Time Since the Outbreak of the Gaza War

Throughout a two-year period amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled in Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.

However, following a recent truce, this sacred city determined that this year the festivities would make a comeback, as represented by the illumination of its customary, large holiday tree before the historic Nativity Church.

"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no Christmas, no employment, no income," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."

The mayor accepts that the idea to restart festivities was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – which affects those in its small Christian population, who often have relatives in Bethlehem.

"Some may say it's not appropriate and others say it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the correct action to take because Christmas should never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Festivity Returns

Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – take photographs before the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of international visitors.

Brightly coloured lights now decorate city streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, so this is where we can send a message globally about what Christmas truly represents. And this year, if the season is calm, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."

Economic Hopes and Challenges

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees soon. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – have an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think everyone needs to come at least once during their lifetime," she states.

"I hope many visitors will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The only thing that's good is there are no long lines – you can come and experience more. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours minimum."

For now, the gift shops scattered throughout Bethlehem have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with visitors.

"Bethlehem is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back like before: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin America and everywhere. We start with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."

The Lingering Economic Toll

Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements for work.

At the same time, government employees have been paid only partial salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs areas within the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to a UN agency.

Israel says it is holding these funds because the PA makes payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage violence against Israelis. The authority – which has been under global pressure to make reforms – says it has recently changed its welfare system.

An Austere Christmas Season

The grim economic situation implies that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are now public festivities in addition to religious ceremonies, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.

At the edge of the square, some patrons are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its income plummet. He notes that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.

"Christians will try to celebrate but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or similar, they lack the money to expend for this celebration."

Prayers for Calm and Recovery

In the cave-like grotto at the base of the church, a local woman follows a small Indian tour group, stooping down by a silver star which marks the location where it is said that Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.

Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for tranquility – and hoping for visitors to return to the location where it is believed Christmas began.

Michael Johnson
Michael Johnson

A passionate travel writer and photographer based in Italy, sharing unique coastal adventures and cultural insights.